• al enige tijd knippert een rood lichtje met FL-off eronder. Daardoor kan ik niets meer doen, hij gaat niet meer aan of uit.
  Iemand tips wat dit is en hoe het op te lossen?

  Gesteld op 10-5-2014 om 16:38 in forum Marantz UD5005 Misbruik melden

  • Here is the solution. This is a common problem with this player. Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die, and you have a blinking red power button. This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did (and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away. Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it. Long version: 1. Unplug everything 2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover. 3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor (looks like a little drum with a '+' on the top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be leaking some brown fluid as well. 4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says 'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits... 5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's simply what others have reported success with. I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to find one that looks somewhat similar to the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2. 6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed one from a friend at work...this is NOT my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty! 7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that board out. Unplug the two cables connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding it down, and, using some pliers, hold down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the board down and slide the board up. I flipped this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in place. 8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the board where the C316 capacitor is attached. Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one shorter leg which is the negative side. It will likely be marked this way as well. 9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side this is. You may not be able to see it until it is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it. 10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron across the joints you identified as belonging to C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free. This is a little tricky to hold the iron, the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn yourself! Again, note which side is negative and which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is positive. There will likely be some solder left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two holes or you will short out the connection. 11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and the capacitor down to the board. 12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound of solder joining each leg to the metal of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's run to some other points, you'll need to do some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an expert at this. If you need a little more solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed your solder into the hot spot until a small amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then remove the solder. Look at the other solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look. 13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder. 14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables. 15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in. Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie. Geantwoord op 29-11-2015 om 00:54

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